Sunday 5 December 2010

Dissertation Proposal

Working title (max 25 words)

This should give an outline of your research topic. If appropriate use a title and a subtitle. You don’t have to be too specific at first and you don’t have to word it like a question - but you can if you want.

How can the textile industry be more sustainable?

Technology, Smart Materials and Bio-Couture.

Summary (max 250 words)

Here you should indicate what you already know about the topic. You should already have done some reading around it. Summarise this reading with regards to the research topic and describe the research area.

To some extent technology is responsible for the production methods currently used by the textile industry. Without technology many of the problems we are currently facing such as diminishing resources may be less apparent. This is because technology is a contributing factor, which has allowed for international shipping, mass production and unsustainable consumption. The development of technology increased production and allowed for greater consumption, which lead to an increase in environmental degradation, waste and energy consumption. However if used effectively technology can be used to reduce some of these global problems by improving the sustainability of the textile industry.

It is necessary to deal with the waste already accumulated, by reusing, recycling and upcycling. It is also crucial that the volume of waste produced in the future is reduced through the use of sustainable design and technology. In order to aid sustainable consumption it is important to investigate materials that biodegrade quickly or can be disposed of efficiently with little environmental impact.

I have already discovered interesting information in regards to current and developing technology, which aims to reduce or eliminate waste. For example designer Professor Helen Storey and chemist, Professor Tony Ryan, have created the first dissolvable dress. Creative Review also trialed dissolvable plastic packaging created in the UK by Cyberpac

Another method of producing environmentally friendly textiles is bio-couture which is a project being carried out by Suzanne Lee. She is experimenting with growing garments in a laboratory using bacterial cellulose.

Aims: Why are you doing this? (max 100 words)

These are a general statement on the intent or direction for the research – why are you doing this? Refer to theoretical aims and practical ones where relevant. For example: How might this improve your design practice? How does it contribute to the discourses within your discipline? Who else might benefit from your research? Is it aimed at an academic or a wider audience? What do you hope your research will achieve? State your aims concisely.

As a textile designer I need to be aware of the ways in which my practice can affect global concerns such as climate change and diminishing resources. I aim to improve my knowledge in regards to the possibilities and limitations of technology as a means to increase the sustainability of the textile design industry. It is likely that in the future more companies will embrace sustainable design, therefore it is important that I understand how technology can affect the sustainability of the textile industry. Designers, those wishing to establish a sustainable business and other students may benefit from my research.

Objectives: What will you produce? (max 100 words)

Objectives are the things you will produce in doing the dissertation, e.g. a review of the relevant literature, a collection and discussion of people’s experiences/opinions, an assessment of a debate or collection of work etc.

Like your aims, these will help your tutor (and you) assess your success. They may change over time but aims and objectives are useful to keep you focussed. Again be concise here – you may want to use bullet points.

· I will discuss why there is a need for designers to understand how technology can increase the sustainability of the textile design industry.

· I intend to evaluate current and developing technology that could provide sustainable textile alternatives (such as bio-couture, reactive materials and dissolvable fabrics).

· It will be necessary to look at the work of numerous designers, chemists and engineers such as Tony Ryan and Suzanne Lee.

· I will look at textiles, which incorporate technology that can be reused, those that will have a longer lifespan and textiles that are easy to recycle or biodegrade quickly.

Keywords (min 5 and max 10)

This should be a list of key terms that help us see if you are aware of where your research ‘sits’. For example, if you are writing on depictions of women in advertising your list might include ‘gender, feminism, representation, advertising, semiotics’. Keywords will help you when doing electronic searched for research materials.

Technology, Smart Materials, Sustainable, Textiles industry, Eco-tech, Bio couture, Environment, Durability, Consumption

Annotated Bibliography (min of 12 books, articles, websites)

Place here alphabetically a list of materials, which you intend to use for your dissertation. Format these according to the Harvard Method!

Please make sure you have critically assessed these as being appropriate for your topic and write a short paragraph for each one summarising the content and its relevance to your research area:


Antenna Science Museum, (n.d). Trash Fashion: designing out waste. [Online] Available at: http://antenna.sciencemuseum.org.uk/trashfashion/home/wearwithoutwaste/ [Accessed 30 November 2010].

The part of this website which is relevant to my research area is entitled “Trash Fashion: designing out waste”. It is split in to 3 sections, which look at aspects of sustainable fashion design. The first section discusses how dyes and finishes can be very damaging to the environment. This section also looks at the use of natural dyes, the technology necessary to limit water consumption and the development of sustainable alternatives to oil-based polyester. The second section looks at how technology can work with nature to make fabrics that biodegrade quickly and the third section looks at how technology can limit waste production.

Bio-Couture, 2007. Bio-Couture Fashion Research Project. [Online] Available at: http://www.biocouture.co.uk/ [Accessed 30 November 2010].

This website documents the work of Suzanne Lee and her bio-couture fashion research project. This source may not be of much use to me as most of the information is presented in photographs, slide shows and films with few descriptive annotations. However the site is visually very informative and would be a valuable source of imagery for my dissertation.

Black, S., 2008. Eco-chic The Fashion Paradox. London: Black Dog Publishing Limited.

This book discusses at length how and why the fashion industry has altered over recent years in relation to sustainable design. The contents of this book are both important and relevant to current designers such as myself, as “western consumers have come to realise complex ethical issues are hidden behind all of our fashion purchasing decisions” (Black, 2008) and are therefore more likely to take into consideration the impacts of their purchases. Numerous case studies are included which highlight companies and designers that have implemented change or been established as a result. These case studies could be of use to me as the companies and designers are ethically aware and focused on reducing the environmental impact of their work. However most of the companies and designers focus on sustainable materials and fair trade as oppose to the incorporation of modern technology. Pages 223 and 235 could provide valuable information. Page 223 discusses sustainable design and manufacturing processes as well as smart clothing and page 235 is about limiting the need for washing, drying and ironing clothes, which is energy consuming.


Creative Review, 2009. [Photograph] Available at: http://www.creativereview.co.uk/cr-blog/2009/october/crs-incredible-dissolving-bag. [Accessed 2 December 2010]

This is the reference for an image used above. The Creative Review website could however be a useful source of information whilst researching sustainable design and current technology.


Ecouterre, 2010. [Photograph] Available at: http://media.ecouterre.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/bio-couture-2.jpg. [Accessed 2 December 2010]

This is the reference for the photograph I used to illustrate bio-couture. The section of this website entitled Wearable Technology available at the following link http://www.ecouterre.com/category/wearable-technology could also be of use to me whilst carrying out research for my dissertation.


Hethorn, J., 2008. Sustainable Fashion Why now? New York: Fairchild Books.

The chapter of this book, which is likely to be of most use to me, is entitled “Environmental Impact of Textile Production” (Hethorn, 2008). The author discusses the negative affects the textile design industry has on the environment. The impact of using particular fibers as well as the impacts of washing, finishing, dyeing, drying and printing is explained. The conclusion states that “Designers and product developers need to be aware of environmental effects in the processing of textiles and should consider the impacts their decisions have on the environment” (Hethorn, 2008) which I completely agree with hence the reason for wanting to investigate the way in which technology can reduce the environmental impact of the textile design industry. Pages 348-355 are also useful to me as they discuss manufactured fibers such as those, which absorb moisture or resist oil absorption.


Hemmings, J., 2010. Recycle, keep, and grow: sustainable textile design in Britain. Surface Design Journal [e-journal] 34 (3), 10-15 Available through: Design and Applied Arts (CSA) [Accessed 24 November 2010].

This journal covers three designers and their approach to sustainable fashion. The first reuses waste we have already accumulated, the second looks at encouraging people to keep items for longer and the third looks at using materials that can be disposed of with little environmental impact.

Hemmings, J., 2008. Grown Fashion: Animal, Vegetable or Plastic? Textile [e-journal] 6 (3), 262-273 Available through: Web of Knowledge [Accessed 24 November 2010].

This journal covers 3 projects based on “grown fashion”, a concept that is new to me. The tissue culture project and art project victimless leather uses human and non-human cells to produce material. Bio couture is the second project discussed, the bio-couture project looks at growing fabric from bacterial cellulose obtained from plant cells. The wonderland project is also discussed which looks at creating dissolvable garments and plastics.

Information Inspiration, 2008. Product Inspiration-Textiles. [Online] (Updated August 2008) Available at: http://www.informationinspiration.org.uk/ [Accessed 30 November 2010].

The section of this website which will be most useful to me is the area which lists examples of eco-design textile items and companies such as Patagonia Fleeces which are made from recycled plastic bottles and ‘appearing-pattern wallpaper’. However the website is quite limited, I will probably find journals and books to be more valuable sources.

Just Means, 2010. Ethical Consumption Eco Wedding: Say “I Do”, to the Dissolvable Bridal Gown. [Online] Available at: http://www.justmeans.com/Eco-Wedding-Say-I-Do-Dissolvable-Bridal-Gown/22322.html [Accessed 2 December 2010].

This article discusses the work of students at Sheffield Hallam University who created wedding dresses that break into 5 re-usable parts in water. This is an interesting take on recycling and eliminating waste that I could link to the dissolvable dresses created by Tony Ryan and Helen Storey.


Klooster, T. Boeing, N. Davis, S. and Seeger, A., 2009. Smart Surfaces and their Application in Architecture and Design. Translated from German by Y. Grūnding. Berlin: Birkhäuser Verlag

This book looks at luminescent wallpaper, curtains which generate electricity, self-cleaning windows and numerous other smart surfaces, some of which are examples of sustainable textiles and could therefore be useful to me when carrying out research to establish how the textile industry can be more sustainable. The chapters, which are likely to aid my research, are entitled “energy”, “light” and “climate”.

Lee, S., 2005. Fashioning the Future. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd

This book looks at many perhaps revolutionary textile items, which incorporate modern technology such as spray on fabric, suits that can be grown and self-cleaning shirts. Despite being published 5 years ago I feel I can learn a lot from this book.

Not Just a Label, 2010. Bio-Couture: Imagine Growing Your Clothes. [Online] Available at: http://www.notjustalabel.com/articles/bio_couture [Accessed 29 November 2010].

This source discusses 3 interesting and unusual approaches to creating sustainable textiles. First the article discusses the work of Suzanne Lee and in particular her bio-couture project, which began in 2006 but is yet to be resolved. Lee aims to create sustainable, environmentally friendly textiles from bacterial cellulose. A collaborative design and bio-engineering project is also discussed. The project is entitled bio-jewellery; the idea is to create jewellery from engineered bone tissue. The final project discussed is the work of Helen Story and Tony Ryan who have created dresses which gradually dissolve in water.

Sauer, C., 2010. Made Of… New Materials Sourcebook for Architecture and Design. Berlin: Gestalten

This book looks at sustainable, new and efficient materials for architecture and design purposes. This book in my opinion focuses rather heavily on architecture however some aspects could be of benefit to my research. For example the chapter powered surfaces looks at technology such as solar power, fluorescent materials and responsive materials some of which are incorporated in to textiles.

Taieb, A. Msahli, S. Sakli, F., 2009. Design of Illuminating Textile Curtain using Solar Energy. The design journal [e-journal] 12 (2), 195-216 Available through: Design and Applied Arts (CSA) [Accessed 24 November 2010].

This journal discusses how conscientious textile design can improve lives and have a positive impact on the environment. The information explains how careful consideration is needed when making design choices and incorporating technology. In order to achieve the most sustainable outcome, the technology, materials etc used have to be sustainable. The journal as a whole provides me with an insight into how the future of the textile industry can be more sustainable. There are three key areas of this journal, which are likely to be useful to me they are the chapters entitled:

The Importance of Ecodesign and Sustainability

Ecodesign in the Textile Sector

Design of Illuminating Textile Using Solar Energy

Wonderland, 2005. Wonderland. [Online] (Updated 18 September 2008) Available at: http://www.wonderland-sheffield.co.uk/index.html [Accessed 30 November 2010].

This website discusses dresses which have been developed by Tony Ryan and Helen Storey to dissolve in water and therefore combat the problem of excessive waste production. Dissolving plastic bottles are also discussed in this website. After use the bottles can be dissolved in hot water to form a gel, the gel can then be used to grow seeds. This is an interesting concept which looks to eliminate the unsustainable plastic bottle we are currently familiar with.

McQuaid, M., 2005. Extreme Textiles. London: Thames & Hudson.

The chapter of this book which is perhaps most relevant to my research is entitled “Smarter-Textiles from Novel Means of Innovation”. This chapter looks at collaborative work carried out by artists, designers, historians, scientists and engineers who create innovative textiles, which incorporate technology. An electronic tablecloth, a fabric light switch and a jacket with a built in MP3 player are some of the items discussed in this book. Not all of the inventions discussed will be sustainable and will so not be relevant to my research but some aspects of this chapter may be useful. Another factor I need to consider is that this book was published 5 years ago and therefore is likely to be quite dated.




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