Title (max 50 words)
To what extent can technology be of use in regards to improving the sustainability of the textile industry?
Summary (Stage 2)
Technology can be detrimental and beneficial. In the past technology has provided us with incredible life changing inventions but it has also led to adverse consequences in some instances. Technology for example is a contributing factor that has allowed for international shipping, mass production and unsustainable consumption. This has in turn caused numerous negative ethical and environmental outcomes. Such as increased energy consumption, waste production, environmental degradation and the decline of finite resources. As well as this countless ethical problems have arisen alongside the provision of low cost textile items for western consumers. A list of such problems would include unfair wages and poor working conditions. However, in recent years “western consumers have come to realise complex ethical issues are hidden behind all of our fashion purchasing decisions” (Black, 2008) and as a result numerous designers and manufacturers are beginning to take action in order to decrease the environmental and ethical impact of their textile items.
It is likely that the environmental and ethical impacts of the textile industry will become more prominent in the future and consumers will require sustainable alternatives. It is therefore necessary to consider how technology could perhaps reduce or even resolve some of the growing concerns regarding sustainability. The positives and negatives of potential technological solutions will be discussed, as will other methods that have been implemented by designers, manufacturers and individuals to improve the sustainability of the textile industry.
First it will be necessary to investigate the ways in which the vast quantities of waste already accumulated can be reduced. A key starting point is recycling, reusing and upcycling. Worn Again is an environmentally friendly company whose ‘aim is to create good quality, functional and design-led products that don’t have a guilty conscience’ (Worn Again). The company works with product and fashion designers to create new items by upcycling. Upcycling is the repurposing of something that is otherwise worthless or unwanted in to a product of greater quality, use and value. ‘Bon Voyage’ is the most recent clothing and accessories range from Worn Again. The range is created from recycled travel related textiles such as de-commissioned Virgin hot air balloons and Eurostar train uniforms. Christopher Raeburn is the British fashion designer who created the collection. Not only does this collection reduce the consumption of finite resources but helps to decrease the volume of textile items going to landfill. The collection is also manufactured in the UK, thus ensuring the items are ethically manufactured and employment opportunities are provided in the UK as opposed to overseas.
As well as considering the waste that has already accumulated it is also crucial that the volume of waste produced in the future is reduced through the use of technology and sustainable design. In order to aid sustainable consumption it is important to investigate materials that biodegrade quickly or can be disposed of efficiently with as little environmental impact as possible. For a solution to be generated it may be necessary, in some cases, for two or more industries to collaborate. For example Helen Storey from London College of Fashion and a professor from Sheffield Universities Chemistry Department known as Tony Ryan worked together on the ‘Wonderland’ project in a mission to eliminate plastic. They used biodegradable polyvinyl alcohol to create a fabric, which dissolves on contact with water. This project could be an answer to the high percentage of textile items currently disposed of in landfill sites.
Another interesting eco friendly project by Helen Storey, Tony Ryan and textile designer Trish Belford is entitled ‘Catalytic Clothing’. Part of the project is entitled ‘Herself’, this is a dress which is embedded with technology that can purify the air by breaking down specific air borne pollutants. Reducing air borne pollutants would have numerous environmental benefits. ‘Catalytic Clothing’ also has the potential to reduce health problems associated with air pollution such as cancer, skin conditions and respiratory problems.
Creating an entirely new environmentally friendly fabric is another approach. Suzanne Lee is investigating the possibilities of growing fabric from bacterial cellulose obtained from plant cells. Her project is entitled ‘BioCouture’.
Another aspect, which is relevant to improving the sustainability of the textile design industry, is the implementation of more environmentally friendly design practices within the manufacturing process. This would include looking at potential ways in which water consumption, the use of toxic chemicals and finite resources could be reduced. The use of smart materials is a potential solution. Smart materials are materials, which have properties that allow them to be stimulated by their environment. They alter in a predictable manner in response to pH, UV, moisture and temperature for example. The development of smart materials that require less washing, drying and ironing would reduce energy consumption and could therefore be a sustainable alternative to the fabrics commonly used today. Woolrich an outdoor clothing company have partnered with Agion, a leader in odor-fighting technology in order to create a collection of outerwear. Their collection eliminates unpleasant smells without frequent washing. It will however be necessary to look in to whether or not the technology used is sustainable, cost effective and environmentally friendly.
As well as the technology currently available it is perhaps necessary to consider how far we have come in the last twenty years and what the potential is for the future. Chih-Wei Wang and Shou-Hsi Fu have come up with a concept idea for an MP3 player powered by body heat. This is currently only an idea but if in the future it is possible to create a material that could convert body heat in to electricity a lot of environmental concerns would be diminished. Another product, which might be available in the future, is a solar powered backpack entitled ‘Androcell’ by Karan Singh Gandh. The backpack would not only be a fully functioning bag but it would allow the user to download and transfer data as well as access videos, music and images by using the touch screen buttons on the shoulder straps of the bag. The interactive display also allows the owner to determine the appearance of the bag. At the end of its life the bag can be recycled. Solar powered multi use textiles could eliminate the need for numerous gadgets in the future and reduce some environmental concerns, but as this is only another potential idea the cost and viability of a product such as this is unknown.
Aims: Why are you doing this? (max 100 words)
As a textile designer I need to be aware of the ways in which my practice can affect global concerns such as climate change and diminishing resources. It is likely that in the future more companies will embrace eco friendly design, it is therefore important that I understand how technology can affect sustainability. I aim to improve my knowledge in regards to the possibilities and limitations of technology as a means to increase the sustainability of the textile design industry. I will also investigate what action designers, manufactures and individuals can take and methods they are already implementing to improve the sustainability of the textile industry. Designers, those wishing to establish a sustainable business and other students may benefit from my research.
Objectives: What will you produce? (max 100 words)
· I intend to evaluate current, developing and future technology that could provide sustainable textile alternatives.
· It will be necessary to compile case studies based on the work of carefully selected designers, chemists and engineers such as Tony Ryan and Suzanne Lee.
· I will look at a range of potentially sustainable textiles.
· The investigation will include textiles that are recycled or reused, those that will have a longer lifespan, textiles that are easy to recycle or biodegrade quickly and smart materials.
Keywords (min 5 and max 10)
Technology, Smart materials, Sustainability, Textiles industry, Eco-tech, Waste, Recycling, ‘BioCouture’, Environment, Durability, Consumption, Design, Fashion.
