Eco-chic The Fashion Paradox by Sandy Black
This book is a result of Black’s view (2008, pp.254) that there is a “need for more sustainable practices in fashion and textile design”. The author discusses how and why the fashion industry has altered over recent years in relation to sustainable design. Case studies are used to highlight companies and designers that have implemented change or been established as a result. Theses companies and designers are ethically aware and focused on producing eco-friendly products.
In recent times “western consumers have come to realise that complex ethical issues are hidden behind all of our fashion purchasing decisions” (Black, 2008) this means that consumers are now more likely to consider the impacts of their purchases. As a result the contents of this book are important and relevant to current designers.
Black (2008, pp.14-18) begins this book with “The greening of the fashion industry” posing questions such as “How can fashion become more environmentally and ethically sound?” and “How can we consume clothing with a clear conscience?” with the key theme throughout the book being sustainable design.
Black’s own ideas and opinions as a Professor of Fashion and Textile Design and Technology as well as sourced information were used to create this book. Black gathered information during a project she carried out in 2004-5 entitled Interrogating Fashion. Workshops she carried out as part of this research allowed her to gain information from Susannah Dowse (TRAID remade), Kate Fletcher, Phil Patterson (Marks and Spencers) and many other designers and retailers who provided a key insight in to sustainable design. Black also interviewed numerous people to compile the case studies.
Black’s view is that most people are aware of their impact on the planet but few feel empowered to make changes. However she states that this is changing as due to increased awareness there is increased demand causing more companies and designers to produce sustainable goods. However producing sustainable items could lead to a decrease in a companies profit if fair wages were paid and sustainable raw materials were sourced for example. A decline in profit is obviously not desirable. As well as this some consumers may not realize the extent of the problems caused by the textile industry or ways in which they can make sustainable purchases. Others may not care about the detrimental impacts their purchases have, as long as the items they buy are fashionable and reasonably priced.
As a result of development in areas such as “fibre production, textile dyeing, minimizing waste of energy and resources, and addressing labour rights” (Black, 2008) the author concludes that the fashion industry is becoming more sustainable. As well as this it is said that there is not one answer, but “many strategies can be adopted to minimise environmental impact within the design and production of fashion” (Black, 2008). It is also suggested that everyone is responsible for the impact of his or her actions and decisions, thought should be made at every step from design and manufacture to purchase and recycling.
Reference List
Black, S., 2008. Eco-chic The Fashion Paradox. London: Black Dog Publishing Limited.
Journal Analysis
Sensitizing Children to Ecological Issues through Textile Eco-Design by Taieb, A.H. Hammami, M. Msahli, S. and Sakl, F.
This journal discusses the ways in which the design of textile products has the potential to improve everyone’s quality of life and create a better future. Throughout the journal there is particular emphasis on the importance of involving children in design. It is also deemed necessary to raise the awareness of ecological problems relating to the textile industry to children, as children are the future. The importance of using sustainable technology and materials is highlighted with the opinion that we can only “build a better world for the future” (Taieb, Hammami, Msahli and Sakl, 2010) if we constantly consider the environment throughout the design process.
The key question deliberated in this journal is “how can we make things better for people and the environment through the textile products we design?” (Taieb, Hammami, Msahli and Sakl, 2010) In order to suggest solutions to this question information gathered from a research project in Tunisia is discussed. The project “aimed to design functional ecological textile products for a more sustainable future” (Taieb, Hammami, Msahli and Sakl, 2010), children were involved in the entire design process as much as possible. The idea behinds this was to gain an insight in to the way children think. The project also hoped to determine how aware children are of current ecological problems and how much they understand, as well as how important and relevant the children think the problems are. Children’s drawings were interpreted to gain answers to some of these questions. The children were also asked to complete questionnaires as part of the research, questions such as “do you know what makes ecological pollution?” (Taieb, Hammami, Msahli and Sakl, 2010) were asked. It was found that “children have considerable knowledge about ecology and environmental pollution and expressed positive attitudes towards ecology and its promotion.” (Taieb, Hammami, Msahli and Sakl, 2010) However this was based on a study of 8-11 year olds in Tunisia, the findings are therefore not representative of all children. The knowledge of children in Tunisia is likely to be very different to that of children in the UK for example.
Within the text the use of sustainable materials such as natural fibres are discussed as are textile manufacture legislations with the conclusion being that “all consumer textile products, even green ones, have negative repercussions on the environment. They are manufactured using raw materials, energy and water, before being packaged and transported to their place of use, and eventually finishing up as waste.” However the authors of this book reiterate what Black (2008) writes in “Eco-chic the Fashion Paradox” that consumers and designers are becoming increasingly aware of environmental problems, which the textile design industry contributes to. Therefore the customer is now much more likely to consider the impacts of their purchases and this is set to increase in the future. It is also again suggested that there are a great number of ways in which textile products can become more sustainable, but there is not one simple answer.
Reference List
Black, S., 2008. Eco-chic The Fashion Paradox. London: Black Dog Publishing Limited.
Taieb, A.H. Hammami, M. Msahli, S. and Sakl, F., 2010. Sensitizing Children to Ecological Issues through Textile Eco-Design. International Journal of Art & Design Education [e-journal] 29 (3), 313-320 Available through: Web of Knowledge database [Accessed 13 November 2010].
