Dissertation Proposal Part 2 (without the images)

Title (max 50 words)

To what extent can technology be of use in regards to improving the sustainability of the textile industry?

Summary (Stage 2)

Technology can be detrimental and beneficial. In the past technology has provided us with incredible life changing inventions but it has also led to adverse consequences in some instances. Technology for example is a contributing factor that has allowed for international shipping, mass production and unsustainable consumption. This has in turn caused numerous negative ethical and environmental outcomes. Such as increased energy consumption, waste production, environmental degradation and the decline of finite resources. As well as this countless ethical problems have arisen alongside the provision of low cost textile items for western consumers. A list of such problems would include unfair wages and poor working conditions. However, in recent years “western consumers have come to realise complex ethical issues are hidden behind all of our fashion purchasing decisions” (Black, 2008) and as a result numerous designers and manufacturers are beginning to take action in order to decrease the environmental and ethical impact of their textile items.

It is likely that the environmental and ethical impacts of the textile industry will become more prominent in the future and consumers will require sustainable alternatives. It is therefore necessary to consider how technology could perhaps reduce or even resolve some of the growing concerns regarding sustainability. The positives and negatives of potential technological solutions will be discussed, as will other methods that have been implemented by designers, manufacturers and individuals to improve the sustainability of the textile industry.

First it will be necessary to investigate the ways in which the vast quantities of waste already accumulated can be reduced. A key starting point is recycling, reusing and upcycling. Worn Again is an environmentally friendly company whose ‘aim is to create good quality, functional and design-led products that don’t have a guilty conscience’ (Worn Again). The company works with product and fashion designers to create new items by upcycling. Upcycling is the repurposing of something that is otherwise worthless or unwanted in to a product of greater quality, use and value. ‘Bon Voyage’ is the most recent clothing and accessories range from Worn Again. The range is created from recycled travel related textiles such as de-commissioned Virgin hot air balloons and Eurostar train uniforms. Christopher Raeburn is the British fashion designer who created the collection. Not only does this collection reduce the consumption of finite resources but helps to decrease the volume of textile items going to landfill. The collection is also manufactured in the UK, thus ensuring the items are ethically manufactured and employment opportunities are provided in the UK as opposed to overseas.

As well as considering the waste that has already accumulated it is also crucial that the volume of waste produced in the future is reduced through the use of technology and sustainable design. In order to aid sustainable consumption it is important to investigate materials that biodegrade quickly or can be disposed of efficiently with as little environmental impact as possible. For a solution to be generated it may be necessary, in some cases, for two or more industries to collaborate. For example Helen Storey from London College of Fashion and a professor from Sheffield Universities Chemistry Department known as Tony Ryan worked together on the ‘Wonderland’ project in a mission to eliminate plastic. They used biodegradable polyvinyl alcohol to create a fabric, which dissolves on contact with water. This project could be an answer to the high percentage of textile items currently disposed of in landfill sites.

Another interesting eco friendly project by Helen Storey, Tony Ryan and textile designer Trish Belford is entitled ‘Catalytic Clothing’. Part of the project is entitled ‘Herself’, this is a dress which is embedded with technology that can purify the air by breaking down specific air borne pollutants. Reducing air borne pollutants would have numerous environmental benefits. ‘Catalytic Clothing’ also has the potential to reduce health problems associated with air pollution such as cancer, skin conditions and respiratory problems.

Creating an entirely new environmentally friendly fabric is another approach. Suzanne Lee is investigating the possibilities of growing fabric from bacterial cellulose obtained from plant cells. Her project is entitled ‘BioCouture’.

Another aspect, which is relevant to improving the sustainability of the textile design industry, is the implementation of more environmentally friendly design practices within the manufacturing process. This would include looking at potential ways in which water consumption, the use of toxic chemicals and finite resources could be reduced. The use of smart materials is a potential solution. Smart materials are materials, which have properties that allow them to be stimulated by their environment. They alter in a predictable manner in response to pH, UV, moisture and temperature for example. The development of smart materials that require less washing, drying and ironing would reduce energy consumption and could therefore be a sustainable alternative to the fabrics commonly used today. Woolrich an outdoor clothing company have partnered with Agion, a leader in odor-fighting technology in order to create a collection of outerwear. Their collection eliminates unpleasant smells without frequent washing. It will however be necessary to look in to whether or not the technology used is sustainable, cost effective and environmentally friendly.

As well as the technology currently available it is perhaps necessary to consider how far we have come in the last twenty years and what the potential is for the future. Chih-Wei Wang and Shou-Hsi Fu have come up with a concept idea for an MP3 player powered by body heat. This is currently only an idea but if in the future it is possible to create a material that could convert body heat in to electricity a lot of environmental concerns would be diminished. Another product, which might be available in the future, is a solar powered backpack entitled ‘Androcell’ by Karan Singh Gandh. The backpack would not only be a fully functioning bag but it would allow the user to download and transfer data as well as access videos, music and images by using the touch screen buttons on the shoulder straps of the bag. The interactive display also allows the owner to determine the appearance of the bag. At the end of its life the bag can be recycled. Solar powered multi use textiles could eliminate the need for numerous gadgets in the future and reduce some environmental concerns, but as this is only another potential idea the cost and viability of a product such as this is unknown.

Aims: Why are you doing this? (max 100 words)

As a textile designer I need to be aware of the ways in which my practice can affect global concerns such as climate change and diminishing resources. It is likely that in the future more companies will embrace eco friendly design, it is therefore important that I understand how technology can affect sustainability. I aim to improve my knowledge in regards to the possibilities and limitations of technology as a means to increase the sustainability of the textile design industry. I will also investigate what action designers, manufactures and individuals can take and methods they are already implementing to improve the sustainability of the textile industry. Designers, those wishing to establish a sustainable business and other students may benefit from my research.

Objectives: What will you produce? (max 100 words)

· I intend to evaluate current, developing and future technology that could provide sustainable textile alternatives.

· It will be necessary to compile case studies based on the work of carefully selected designers, chemists and engineers such as Tony Ryan and Suzanne Lee.

· I will look at a range of potentially sustainable textiles.

· The investigation will include textiles that are recycled or reused, those that will have a longer lifespan, textiles that are easy to recycle or biodegrade quickly and smart materials.

Keywords (min 5 and max 10)

Technology, Smart materials, Sustainability, Textiles industry, Eco-tech, Waste, Recycling, ‘BioCouture’, Environment, Durability, Consumption, Design, Fashion.

Post-Consumer Product/Service Business Idea

Today we met in our interdisciplinary groups once again, this time to discuss a potential service or product for a post-consumer. We began with a mind map. First we thought about electronic services such as an e-magazine or mobile phone application, which could be used by the post-consumer as a research tool. For example the e-magazine or app could provide information about where the local recycling points are, how to source local produce or top tips for healthy/green living. The post-consumer could also find out about relevant ethical or eco friendly events in their area. Next we discussed a craft package, which would include recycled/scrap fabrics and an instruction booklet, allowing the post consumer to transform the materials in to a range of items such as a soft toy, cushion, purse or key ring. Next we thought about a clothes recycling/transformation service, provision of allotments, a garden letting service, a gym which could be used to generate electricity, a local vegetable box/produce box delivery service and eventually we decided that we would establish an eco/craft café.

Ideas for the Eco/Craft Café:

The produce would be sourced locally

Fair trade and organic ingredients would be used where possible

Vegetarian options

Vegan options

Seasonal menu (reduced air miles of food-reduced carbon emissions)

Use renewable energy: Solar panels, wind turbines

Energy efficient light bulbs etc

Well-insulated building

Plant trees to offset carbon emissions

Carbon neutral if possible.

Free range chickens

Garden/allotment space

Recycling

Food waste-Compost heaps/feed to pigs.

Used tea bags can also be composted

Any packaging would be recycled

Building materials-straw/environmentally friendly alternatives

A room/area of the café would be used as a craft workshop

Knitting/crochet workshops

Make and mend events

Learn to sew

Dressmaking/Soft furnishing courses

Educational craft based classes for school children

Upcycling workshop

Target Market

Post-consumers

Young Professionals

Students

Research

T in the Park is a carbon neutral festival some of the methods used here could be implemented in an eco café. For more information please follow the following links:

http://www.perthshire.co.uk/index.asp?pg=382

http://www.tinthepark.com/content/default.asp?page=s9_4

Quirky Green Message Video from Green Thing

Meet Green Thing from Green Thing on Vimeo.

Green Thing is not-for-profit public service that encourages people to have a green lifestyle.

http://www.dothegreenthing.com/

Examples of current eco cafés

http://www.funkyteapot.co.uk/page.php?pageid=home

Students at Hereford College of Technology have an eco café made from straw (as was suggested by one of the members in the group- he is going to research this further)

http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/herefordandworcester/hi/people_and_places/newsid_9379000/9379975.stm

Perhaps outside catering/events and private functions could be catered for as is currently offered by The Fold a well-established eco café offering a range of services, which includes the Care Farm. The Care Farm not only supplies the café and restaurant but also produces plants to be sold and gives people an area to grow. Courses, workshops, events, festival and exhibitions also take place or are organized at The Fold.

http://www.thefold.org.uk/ecocafe/the-ecocafe

For the meeting next week, which i am unable to attend due to a course trip to Paris we will each research eco cafes and read a section of the business start up guide. I have been assigned chapters 16, 17 and 18 to read and summarize, i will then email my findings to the rest of the group.

Assignment 2: The Post Consumer

After carrying out some personal research on the topic we met up to discuss post-consumerism, this is the idea that some things have value, which is immeasurable in monetary terms. For example something, which helps others, or allows for quality family time has a value. This is because people have come to realize that happiness is not only about money and material items.

We began with a general discussion on the topic, talking about what we think post-consumerism is and what a post-consumer would be like in terms of age, appearance, personality etc. We created a mindmap, looking at areas such as products a post consumer might purchase, what their interests would be and who their celebrity icons might be. For example Russel Brand and Prince Charles have been determined as post-consumer celebrity icons. Prince Charles has spent time running the Prince’s Rainforest Fund and educating people about the reasons why we should try to live environmentally friendly lives. Natalie Portman can also be seen as a post-consumer as she is not only a vegan but also refuses to wear animal products. Another celebrity post-consumer is Harry Potter actress Emma Watson who collaborated with People Tree an ethical and environmentally friendly clothing company to create the current spring/summer collection.

Here is a basic outline of characteristics that we think might fit the profile of a post consumer:

Age: We think a post-consumer can range in age from late teens through to the elderly. Anyone aware of issues such as climate change, exploitation of the poor, child labour, animal cruelty, carbon emissions etc can make a conscious design to make a difference by altering their lifestyle.

Income: The income of a post-consumer could vary considerably but we think that most post-consumer are likely to be relatively wealthy/have a comfortable income. This is because with a relatively high income and the ability to buy any material item you desire, it will be easy to see that happiness is not solely dependant on income.

Communication:

Likely to be involved in protests/create petitions (perhaps against companies which cause significant environmental degradation for example)

May be involved in educating others-campaigns, schools, posters/leaflets/merchandise

Raise awareness of global issues relevant to a post-consumer

Shops/Companies:

Charity shops- Oxfam

People Tree- Ethical and Environmentally friendly

Style Junky- Women’s fashion. Social and ecologically conscious. Does not support disposable fashion.

Timberland- Earthkeeper range. Eco-conscious footwear.

Services:

Recycling schemes

Reduce, reuse, recycle

Conservation schemes

Volunteering

Forest Stewardship Council

Could be a member of WWF-tackle climate change, poverty etc

Travel:

Walk/bicycle/car share: reduce carbon emissions

Public transport

Eco holidays/Ecotourism

Responsible tourism

Support for local people/projects

Volunteering holidays

Carbon offsetting schemes-First Choice holidays

Rainforest protection scheme-First Choice holidays

Food:

Organic

Home grown

Allotments

Local produce- reduce air miles

Perhaps vegan/vegetarian

Fair trade: Ben and Jerry’s, Bananas, Green and Blacks etc

Sustainable

Clothing:

Recycled- Oxfam

Make do and mend- fixed, altered, personalized

Home made- crafts person. Knit, crochet.

Fair Trade

Organic Cotton

Biodegradable-Bamboo/ other natural fibres

Celebrity Icons:

Natalie Portman

Jack Johnson

Emma Watson

Prince Charles

Russel Brand

Below are some images of my group creating a mindmap and poster centered around post-consumerism and the profile of a post consumer.

Assignment 1 (Semester 2): Learning Styles.

During our group meeting today we discussed the outcome of the learning style surveys we each took. According to the online questionnaire I took I am a strong reflector, moderate activist and very low theorist and pragmatist. I think this is probably quite accurate, however I do feel there are points in each category that I could argue describe me.

As a reflector it think it is true to say that I don’t like acting as a leader I find this very challenging, I also dislike public speaking and doing things with no time to prepare. However I am not particularly fazed by deadlines as I feel I am quite an organized individual. I also don’t think I over analyze situations. I do fit the reflector role but I can relate more easily to the activists role. This is because I like to try new things, solve problems and welcome new opportunities. I like to work in a team on occasion but I also like to work alone as I sometimes feel group work can in fact irritate me when I feel the workload is unevenly shared or some people are not putting in significant effort. I think it is true to say I am not really a theorist or pragmatist. I don’t really tend to follow a set pattern or work in a step-by-step, structured manner. I also learn well through experimentation and trial and error rather than by being shown techniques or following models.

I correctly guessed the learning style of two people in my group, Sarah and Sophie who are both reflectors. Sophie in fact got the exact same result as I did on the learning style questionnaire, which is a probably a little unusual. I am sure that despite the same result we will each have a different personality and background and can therefore each contribute differently to the group. Two other members of the group are activists and another is a moderate reflector/pragmatist. The dominant mode of the team is reflector but i think the group is quite balanced despite there being no theorists. This is because Sarah who is a very strong reflector is also a strong theorist so our team is not too uneven and perhaps Sean may also be a theorist. He was unable to make the meeting today so we are yet to discover his learning style. As none of us are theorists we will have to ensure that we cover all aspects of the tasks logically whilst working as a group. We will have to be careful, rational and think through our actions, we will also need to make sure our decisions make sense.